The Holy Trinity of Mexican Food in Berlin

One of the greatest tragedies in German cooking is the absence of Mexican food.We practically live on taco trucks, hole-in-the-wall taquerís, and homemade tex-mex in Seattle. We were aghast to find poor man's Spanish food standing in for our beloved Mexican in Berlin when we arrived in 2007. Toto - we're not in Kansas anymore.

While it may seem strange for a couple of Seattleites to be talking up Mexican food, Ian has a mysterious past. He is actually from Eastern Washington. GASPPPPPPP!!! Oh- you have no idea why that's a big deal? Let me explain a little something about Washington state.

Most people only know about glorious Seattle, but Washington is quite large (18th largest in fact). Do you see that brown thing in the center? That's a big ass mountain range, the Cascades, and it separates the state.

West side - more liberal and city-like

East side - more conservative and rural

Fiesta Foods

A drive over the mountains can reveal a disturbing increase in anti-abortion propaganda, bail bonds offices, and light racism. Luckily, it also hosts an agricultural community that brought with it farm workers- namely Mexicans. And oh man! those Mexicans can cook. Ian is legitimately proud of Yakima's little Mexico and I have an ever deepening love for the cuisine every time we visit.

 Anyhoo - back to Berlin. I've talked about the lack of Mexican food all over the world and our yearning for it in my work article "American Snacks Gone Global", and seen this repeated as an answer to "What do you miss most? in our Expat interviews. Seeing the need, many have trie to right this wrong in otherwise amazing city. There has been rapid expansion of the Mexican restaurant scene in Berlin. Most have missed - whether it be tortillas that immediately fall apart, pickles in the salsa, or food assembled so hopelessly it is impossible to eat. But there are a few places making a difference.

Three restaurants (that I believe are owned by the same people) are elevating the fine art of Mexican food. There are still stumbles, but our favorite hits closer to the food of our dreams than we have dared to hope before. The restaurants....

Maria Bonita

Danziger Str. 33, Prenzlauer Berg, 10435 Berlin 

+49 17670179461 

This spot is like a permanent taco truck. The place is tiny and offers take-out options, making it close to the atmosphere of places we loved back home. The portions are ok with lower prices than its sister restaurants. The problem is that the quality is also much lower and with additional charges for condiments like the habanero salsa, making the price settle close to that of the sit down restaurants (still under 10 euro). The biggest sin is that my Huevos rancheros was served with the tortillas beneath everything else - only to be discovered with fork and knife - a soggy mess.

Verdict - I wouldn't bother with this one again unless I was in the area and wanted something to go. At least the artwork and attitude are right.

Maria Peligro

Skalitzer Str. 81, Kreuzberg, 10997 Berlin, Germany
#0176 70127179

The opposite end of the spectrum, Maria Peligro is the largest space with a slightly more upscale, although still Berlin ramshackle, vibe. We came here for Cinco de Mayo and there was a host of specials on the menu for drinking & dining and plenty of intimate seats to choose from in the Dia de los Muertos decor. That changed quickly as the place filled up and the Coronas and 4 euro margaritas flowed (happy hour price). The carne asada burrito was a delight, but at 9 euros for the burrito and a smear of gaucomole it's price was a little absurd. The plate screamed "Some beans! Rice please!" My dish of chilaquiles was surprisingly less well crafted and more expensive than the preferred third restaurant.

Verdict - A good place to meet a group and have a meal, especially during happy hour. But for the best food of the three, party on to the next place.

Maria Peligro in Berlin

chilaquiles

Maria Peligro

Cinco de Mayo in Berlin

Santa Maria 

Oranienstr. 170, Kruezberg, 10999 Berlin
#030 92210027

We've found our Mexican home. We stumbled in on a cold evening and found a few tables packed into a tiny space on trendy Oranienstrasse. We worried about finding a place, but were able to take a seat at the bar and order 1 euro tacos for taco Tuesdays with a 4 euro margarita. Things were looking good. Additional orders of a salad for 3.50, a burrito for 5, and my first run at chilaquiles were surprisingly delightful. Service is also an unexpected highpoint with the hurried, but helpful, staff getting food out and people sat in a timely order.

Verdict - We're in love. Like a puppy dog crush, that may fade with regular visits...but for now we are charmed.  Note that it is often overrun, but if you can wait it's worth it.

Santa Maria Berlin

Burrito

Santa Maria menu

margarita Santa Maria

chilaquiles

Tip: If you like things hot! hot! hot! like us - ask for the habenero salsa. It's no additional charge at Maria Peligro & Santa Maria and packs a delightful punch to the tongue.

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If you are still dreaming of Mexican food without relief, here is a little inspiration. We substitute Indian chili powder for Mexican, use feta for queso fresco, and Turkish breads for tortillas to make something like homemade Mexican food work. We are by no means chefs, but maybe knowing we can do it can lead you to some adventurous cooking of your own. I use Allrecipes to get ideas and for its easy metric conversion.

Nachos

Quaedilla, Mexican rice, black bean salad

Simple corn, cilantro, and feta quesdilla with cherry tomatoes

Tortilla pie

Have a recipe you like or recommendation? Do tell....AND if you're gonna get really crazy, please start a taco truck in Berlin! Here is a how to: http://www.tacosberlin.com/how-to

Why did you move back to Berlin?

"Because Berlin is one of the most exciting cities in the world."

"Because we weren't ready to be settled in Seattle. "

"Because we love being expats."

We got asked this question (and many more) over & over during the filming of our episode of House Hunters International. Set to air this Wednesday,

May 23, 2012 at 7:30 & 10:30 PM (West Coast time)

we are pretty sure we are going to look like smiling idiots that say things like "Wow!", "rain shower", and one really awkward "I love you". That doesn't mean we aren't excited.

Sadly, while our friends & family watch this Wednesday (we hope) we will have to wait up to 4 weeks to get our copy of the episode. The show is currently only available in the US and we will have to rely on the kindness of the fam to give it to us straight. My hair was crazy wasn't it? I'm pretty sure I wore the same sweater everyday - does it look like that? How many times - really- did I say "nice"?

I don't want to totally spoil the surprise, so here are some non-specific photos of the shooting. Berliners - see if you know what sites & neighborhoods we shot in.

Shopping for apartment accessories

Berlin crew with Tim, the Real Estate Agent

Background scene - amt in Berlin

Opinion shots for House Hunters International

Yuppies out!

Where in Berlin?

Sound man, Noel, gives the thumbs up as Matt on cameras and director, Chris, look on

Ian's interview on House Hunters

Walking shot

miked

We returned to Seattle for a one-day shoot for the back story. And to see our wonderful family and friends of course.

1st location - Ballard Locks

Locks in Seattle

Bottleworks in Wallingford

We walked into Bottle works to find that our Seattle sound guy was famous. Eric was the sound guy and sometimes on-air personality for the Spike television show "3 sheets".

Ian's Seattle interview for HHI

Some of our friends for the Seattle shoot

us with our amazing crew - Eric (sound), Nick (director), Matt (camera)

 We will post the rest of the pics, and eventually the show, after it's aired. We hope that those that can watch - will. And not laugh too much. To understand how the show works: my undercover report.

Still looking for an answer to our question about "Why did we move back to Berlin?" If the show doesn't answer that, read about our journey Back to Berlin and find our listings of our favorite places in Berlin.

I heart Pizza

See this?

GET IN MY BELLY!

Pizza XXL is our go-to for meals on the go, late night snacks, and is best paired with a Sternberg.  2 euros buys you a giant rectangle of well adorned pie. Ever heard of rucola? I hadn't before falling in love with it. I've since realized it is known as arugula in the States - or more whimsically - rocket in British English. That's the most fun name for a salad ingredient ever.

We always get the rucola pizza with grated feta cheese. We also have them douse our slice in garlic and chili sauce. Absolutely the best. You can buy the sauce there, but I really want to try making our own (I found the recipes here and here...just need to do it).

Plus - the location is just off the U5 line - minutes from Alexanderplatz - and around the corner from our beloved Salamas. Getting a 4 euro bite for the 2 of us before or after the game has become a welcome part of the Sunday ritual.

Like everywhere in Berlin, there are a few seats outside as soon as the frost dethaws the city. Few things are nicer than eating some delicious pizza and catching a view of the Fernsehturm. And the bike path here offer optimal chance of collision with walkers. That's some serious Berlin sightseeing.

Next month we sample the food of the gods in Naples.  The birthplace of pizza, I have a sneaking suspicion I'm going to love it. 

Pizza XXL

Frankfurter Allee 40

10247 Berlin
Neighborhood: Friedrichshain

Telephone: 0179 7579663

Hours: Everyday 11:30 - 1:00


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UPDATE: 

Today we once again sampled the wonder of Italy, while still at home in Berlin.

Massaniello

(not to overstate it) is the shit.

Run by a family from Naples, the place charmed from the moment we entered and the wood powered oven cooked our divine pizza margherita. Who knew that a little tomato sauce, buffalo mozzarella and basil was all you really needed on a pizza? Oh right - the Italians. This place reconfirms that all you need is the right ingredients to make transcendent food.  

 

We ordered another pizza with salami and, olives & artichokes....but that margherita stole our heart. Its pure creamy goodness was exactly what we wanted. And their spicy oil was even better than XXL - an impressive feat. On top of all this, our Italian server, homey decor, and temptress of a courtyard already have us planing for a return visit. Parents - we are taking you here. You're welcome. 

Massaniello

Hasenheide 20
10967 Berlin-Kreuzberg
Tel.:  030 6 92 66 57Neighborhood: Neukölln

Hours: Everyday 12:00 - 24:00
Price: Pies are around 8 euro and plenty for one person (and dear god - get the buffalo mozzerella)

Gorki Park - Russian in Berlin

Gorki Park in Berlin

We sat down outside Gorki Park a few weeks ago on a steamy day...only to have a burst of rain shower chase us inside. I am so glad it did. The area on the left is more of the restaurant side with the right bar side holding USSR gems. Posters, memorabilia - it was a really quirky setting. 

We had a Russian beer, Moskwa, and it came in a bad-ass glass. We asked how much the glasses were, but 6.50 was a little spendy (I know, our thriftiness is impressive). The beer itself was serviceable and added to the experience, but nothing that special.

 

We ordered two of the more pricey lunch options at 9-12ish euro and they were presented beautifully - Beef Stroganov & dumplings. The dumplings had a variety of fillings (I liked the spinach & chicken best ), but a huge plate of them got a little one note. The stroganov was exceptional meaty goodness with a nice little green salad. Some of the meals came with a shot of vodka - almost wish we'd gotten crazy with it. All in all, not a deal, but a fun experience.

I heard they are known for their breakfasts (ah! Berlin brunch) & will have to check it out.

 

Details:

Gorki Park

Weinbergsweg 25  10119 Berlin, Germany (Mitte)
Tel: 030 4487286

Hours:

Mon-Sat 9:30 am - 2 am

Sun 10 am - 2 am

Life by Bike

We aren't what you'd call "serious bikers". A German friend that commutes by bike bemoans this time of year when the weather turns glorious and the lack of hills lulls the most amateur of amateurs into thinking they're a pro. "That's us!" I said proudly. We buy our bikes at flea markets for under 50 euro and the sole deciding process is:

• price
• can they hold our weight?

That 's how we ended up with 2 ladies purple bikes. We're quite  a sight to behold.

ebe's Bike: Lady Girl

Ian's Bike: Stray Bullet

But biking here is irresistible. Seattle  for all of it's calls of "green-friendly bike city" - requires serious discipline making it up ferocious hills, braving narrow streets, and aggressive drivers. We just can't hack it there. But Berlin is (mostly) devoid of hills, has wide bike-laned boulevards, and if not joyous car & pro bike drivers - they are accepting of their fate in sharing the road.

So spring is here & we've taken to the roads. Rapturously, shakily riding the streets of Berlin. And what a lot there is to see.

The Wasserturm, Berlin's oldest water tower, was completed in 1877. This site is a symbol of the neighborhood,  Prenzlauer Berg, and has an interesting history.

Wasserturm Prenzlauer Berg

The Jewish community is still a fragment of what it was in Berlin before WWII, but all the time you run across reminders of it's once prominent place in the community.

Jewish School in Prezlauer Berg

Just another Police raid....

Quiet in these pics, Mariannenplatz is covered in people for MyFest (MayDay). An old hospital dominates the square and hosts art events.

Graffiti, graffiti everywhere. How I love thee.

Doener Love

Berlin graffiti

Kreuberg Astronaut

Prenzlauer Berg

 

Kreuzberg

Knut

Kreuzberg

Lebowski on Berlin Wall

 Stag Parties are here. Meet chicken Stag party:

 And beir bike stag party:

 My parents were intimidated by a protest in Bratislava, but it's hardly a day in Berlin without a call for social reform.

...and awesomely weird public art! Ian passes this place on his commute to work everyday. We had time to make use of it on our bike ride of leisure.

Skeleton

The city has inescapable history. The Gedenkniskirche isn't the only bombed out church. This little lovely is up by Weißensee
.

Old Scultheiss Brewery

Kreuzberg Church & U-Baahn line

Nikolaikirche, Rotes Rathaus, Fernsehturm

 In spite of our continual jabs at Wedding, we are starting to really like our neighborhood.

Wedding, Berlin

rose garden starting to bloom

BIG plus - we found a swimming pool with slide 5 minutes from the house. I think our summer plans are established. (We went, we swam, we conquored)

Fallen in love with our nearby park. And old people being all cute.

You can barely make out people on the grass past the trees, but they are hilarious. This large group of older Turkish gentlemen appear frequently and play bocce ball - cursing all the while.

Volkspark Humboldthain

Time for a break....

These are just tidbits of what we've seen this spring in Berlin. Those sights truly deserving of full posts and restaurants we have been lucky enough to sample will be taking on an increasingly prominent role on this blog (like finding real bears in the center of the city). I take pictures of pretty much anything that moves (and lots of things that don't) so what better way to fan another of my amateur outlets than post them on my blog? Maybe our sight/restaurant reviews will even be of service to others in Berlin. Enjoy!