A Somber Visit to Hohenschönhausen

I took a Facebook poll of what I should post about next (Like our page - pretty please. We need affirmation.) and people actually answered! Pleasantly surprised, I went with the vote of the people and finished this half-done post about Hohenschönhausen.

A truly thought-provoking spot, I was moved and intrigued by our visit. So why did this post sit half done? Berlin is beyond being "discovered" at this point, and almost everything I want to blog about has been done before, and better. (Check out Chasing Heartbeats beautiful coverage). But by that logic, why should we do anything that has been done before? Why'd I even come to Berlin (twice) if it had already been "done" by other expats? Therefore, post I shall.

Whew. Enough boring and obvious introspection and a little more about a place you should want to get to know better....

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Gedenkstätte Hohenschönhausen

Genslerstr. 66  13055 Berlin, Germany 

Tel. 030 986082-30

Hohenschönhausen used to not even be marked on maps - it was that secret. Today you can take guided tours around the eerie buildings. Still and quiet except for the various groups, it all comes to chilling life when tales of it's history are recited. It is the background to the confession scenes in the film The Lives of Others. The idea of it alone is terrifying. And yet there we stood, on a fairly sunny day, listening to a young American woman tell us about the atrocities that occurred here.

The place is now a museum and memorial located in Berlin's north-eastern Lichtenberg district. It was opened in 1994 on the site of the main prison of the former East German Communist Ministry of State Security, better known as the Stasi. Basically intact, Wikipedia reports:

"Unlike many other government and military institutions in East Germany, Hohenschönhausen prison was not stormed by demonstrators after the fall of the Berlin Wall, allowing prison authorities to destroy evidence of the prison's functions and history. Because of this, today's knowledge of the functioning of the prison comes mainly from eye-witness accounts and documents sourced from other East German institutions."

I took an absurd amount of photos of doors, not only because the derelict conditions created that "oh-so-trendy abandoned look", but because doors like these make you think about the terrifying things that once happened within.

 

Rubber Room Hohenschönhausen

The memorial was founded in the early 1990s by former inmates. We heard that former prisoners occasionally give the tours.

An older area used by the soviets is known as the U-Boot (submarine). It is almost entirely underground and prisoners could choose whether they wanted a hot cell or a cold cell. Both were unpleasant. This wood bed is an exact replica and this small cell would house 12 prisoners at a time. People lost track of time, lost days....weeks....

The halls of the second building used by the Stasi was less barbarian but had just as terrifying of details.

alarm cords

Hohenschönhausen

The red lights were alarms. People were kept totally separate and a red light meant the hallway was in use, preventing two prisoners from seeing each other in the halls. You had no idea if a stranger was in the cell next to you or your mother. In the GDR for every 180 citizen there was one member of the Stasi keeping tabs.. That equals a lot of informants.

In the cells,
Books weren't allowed.
Writing wasn't allowed.
Windows were covered.
Talking wasn't allowed.

Some people figured out ingenious systems of connecting with each other. They would use a towel to empty the water in the toilet and viola! A telephone of sorts. This could be foiled as all of the controls for the cell were on the outside. Lights, temp, and -yes- even the ability to flush the toilet.

Automobiles like this truck would pick you up at work/family events/home/anywhere and take you away. There were no windows, so you couldn't tell where you were. To make matters worse, the Stasi would drive for hours around the city to confuse you. In 3 hours you could be almost in Prague and no one would every find you. In reality, people were just on the outskirts of the city.

As we exited, I was left wondering....

What is the point of all this? What did they want? The simple answer is - confessions. Interrogations were intense. Hour after hour, hands under legs, psychological belittlement, severely sleep deprived, repeating their story over & over, days or weeks of isolation.... all to get someone to confess to sins as little as speaking out against the regime.

In a system which espouses that everyone is equal and reasonable, it is important to have logic and order. In theory, no one was punished without reason. They each had a crime. Maybe that is the scariest of all. They thought the means (torture) to an end (confessions) made it worthwhile. 

These visits to Berlin's historical sites are never exactly a "fun day", but I've never been sorry I visited. I think it's all about balance. With all the good memories we are making now, it was inevitable there has to be some bad. 

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On a cheerier note, upcoming posts include:

• Getting Down with Nature just Outside Berlin - Canoeing in the Spreewald 
• Eisern Union! - East Berlin Soccer Team
• Back to Berlin on House Hunters International - Video & Behind the Scenes look 
• Memories à la Beer Labels & Trash in Your Home - Crafts! 
• Where to take Your Texan Nephew in Berlin

The Holy Trinity of Mexican Food in Berlin

One of the greatest tragedies in German cooking is the absence of Mexican food.We practically live on taco trucks, hole-in-the-wall taquerís, and homemade texmex in Seattle. We were aghast to find poor man's Spanish food standing in for our beloved Mexican in Berlin when we arrived in 2007. Toto - we're not in Kansas anymore.

While it may seem strange for a couple of Seattlites to be talking up Mexican food, Ian has a mysterious past. He is actually from Eastern Washington. GASPPPPPPP!!! Oh- you have no idea why that's a big deal? Let me explain a little something about Washington state.

Most people only know about glorious Seattle, but Washington is quite large (18th largest in fact). Do you see that brown thing in the center? That's a big ass mountain range, the Cascades, and it separates the state.

West side - more liberal and city-like

East side - more conservative and rural

Fiesta Foods

A drive over the mountains can reveal a disturbing increase in anti-abortion propaganda, bail bonds offices, and light racism. Luckily, it also hosts an agricultural community that brought with it farm workers- namely Mexicans. And oh man! those Mexicans can cook. Ian is legitimately proud of Yakima's little Mexico and I have an ever deepening love for the cuisine every time we visit.

 Anyhoo - back to Berlin. Other expats feel our pain. CNNGo recently published "10 foods Americans miss most while abroad" and Mexican Food easily placed at the top of the list. I'm not surprised as it is also a common answer in our Expat interviews. To try to right this wrong in otherwise amazing city, there has been rapid expansion of the Mexican restaurant scene in Berlin. Most have missed, whether it be tortillas that immediately fall apart, pickles in the salsa, or food assembled so hopelessly it is impossible to eat. But there are a few places making a difference.

Three restaurants (that I believe are owned by the same people) are elevating the fine art of Mexican food. There are still stumbles, but our favorite hits closer to the food of our dreams than we have dared to hope before. The restaurants....

Maria Bonita

Danziger Str. 33, Prenzlauer Berg, 10435 Berlin 

+49 17670179461 

This spot is like a permanent taco truck. The place is tiny and offers take-out options, making it close to the atmosphere of places we loved back home. The portions are ok with lower prices than its sister restaurants. The problem is that the quality is also much lower and with additional charges for condiments like the habanero salsa, making the price settle close to that of the sit down restaurants (still under 10 euro). The biggest sin is that my Huevos rancheros was served with the tortillas beneath everything else - only to be discovered with fork and knife - a soggy mess.

Verdict - I wouldn't bother with this one again unless I was in the area and wanted something to go. At least the artwork and attitude are right.

Maria Peligro

Skalitzer Str. 81, Kreuzberg, 10997 Berlin, Germany
#0176 70127179

The opposite end of the spectrum, Maria Peligro is the largest space with a slightly more upscale, although still Berlin ramshackle, vibe. We came here for Cinco de Mayo and there was a host of specials on the menu for drinking & dining and plenty of intimate seats to choose from in the Dia de los Muertos decor. That changed quickly as the place filled up and the Coronas and 4 euro margaritas flowed (happy hour price). The carne asada burrito was a delight, but at 9 euros for the burrito and a smear of gaucomole, its price was a little absurd. The plate screamed "Some beans! Rice please!" My dish of chilaquiles was surprisingly less well crafted and more expensive than the preferred third restaurant.

Verdict - A good place to meet a group and grab a bite & a beer, especially during happy hour. But for the best food of the three, party on to the next place.

Maria Peligro in Berlin

chilaquiles

Maria Peligro

Cinco de Mayo in Berlin

Santa Maria 

Oranienstr. 170, Kruezberg, 10999 Berlin
#030 92210027

We've found our Mexican home. We stumbled in on a cold evening and found a few tables packed into a tiny space on trendy Oranienstrasse. We worried about finding a place, but were able to take a seat at the bar and order 1 euro tacos for taco Tuesdays with a 4 euro margarita. Things were looking good. Additional orders of a salad for 3.50, a burrito for 5, and my first run at chilaquiles were surprisingly delightful. Service is also an unexpected highpoint with the hurried, but helpful, staff getting food out and people sat in a timely order.

Verdict - We're in love. Like a puppy dog crush, that may fade with regular visits...but for now we are charmed.  Note that it is often overrun, but if you can wait it's worth it.

Santa Maria Berlin

Burrito

Santa Maria menu

margarita Santa Maria

chilaquiles

Tip: If you like things hot! hot! hot! like us - ask for the habenero salsa. It's no additional charge at Maria Peligro & Santa Maria and packs a delightful punch to the tongue.

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If you are still dreaming of Mexican food without relief, here is a little inspiration. We substitute Indian chili powder for Mexican, use feta for queso fresco, and Turkish breads for tortillas to make something like homemade Mexican food work. We are by no means chefs, but maybe knowing we can do it can lead you to some adventurous cooking of your own. I use Allrecipes to get ideas and for its easy metric conversion.

Nachos

Quaedilla, Mexican rice, black bean salad

Simple corn, cilantro, and feta quesdilla with cherry tomatoes

Tortilla pie

Have a recipe you like or recommendation? Do tell....